7 cult Korean skincare ingredients and products you must try
Boasting an expansive range of products to solve just about every skin concern that ails you, highly efficacious ingredients, and for most part, affordable price points, it's no wonder Korean skincare has had a surge in popularity in the West. However, entering this magical world we would best describe as beauty on steroids can be daunting, so we've short-listed the most popular ingredients, from cica to snail muscin, ginseng to niacinamide, as well as the best, cult products to find them in to help you on your skincare quest. If you've dabbled in the K-beauty game, see how many of these ingredients you're familiar with and discover our must-try product favourites from COSRX, Laneige, Klairs, Neogen, Beauty of Joseon, Sulwhasoo, Innisfree and more.
1. Centella Asiatica (Cica)
A cornerstone for K-beauty when it comes to anti-inflammatory ingredients, centella asiatica or cica for short is a herb long used in Eastern medicine containing fatty acids, vitamins and amino acids that soothes and rebuilds a broken skin barrier. It is said that tigers have been found in the wild to roll around in this herb to help heal their wounds. Incorporating centella asiatica is a must for anyone experiencing irritation, redness or dryness, and it works beautifully with retinols and exfoliants to help heal freshly, resurfaced skin. We also like keeping a couple of cica masks on hand as a pick me up for times when your skin is feeling sensitive or any sunburn accidents!
2. Rice water
Popularised by Japanese cult skincare brand, SK-II, the use of rice and rice water on the skin and hair dates back thousands of years across not just Japan but Korea, China and South East Asia, and for good reason. Yet another soothing ingredient used to calm irritation, rice which contains antioxidants, fatty acids and polysaccharides, has the ability to moisturise and brighten the skin, but also proteins to strengthen hair.
3. Niacinamide (vitamin B3)
Perhaps a more familiar ingredient is niacinamide. Loved by dermatologists for all skin types, this jack of all trades has long been used in Western and Eastern skincare but more recently popularised due to it's prominence in Korean beauty products. It seems we can't get enough of niacinamide, possibly due to the fact that is treats a myriad of skin concerns. It regulates oil production for both dry and oily skin types, reduces inflammation for sensitive and acne-prone skin and if pigmentation or fine lines are a concern, this trusty ingredient has also been found to brighten, reduce oxidative stress and increase collagen production. In addition, it plays nice with many other ingredients (in fact many products will have niacinamide in combination with various actives) enhancing the effects of retinol, vitamin c, alpha arbutin and to be honest, most other antioxidants.
4. Snail muscin
Yes, though it might sound a little gross but snail muscin, a secretion snails use to protect and heal themselves from cuts and scraps (don't worry no critters are harmed in the extraction process) is a popular and trusted ingredient in Korean beauty products, and is now playing a key role in wound healing research. Containing moisturising agents, vitamins A and E, glycolic acid, zinc and allantoin, snail muscin is hydrating, anti-aging with regenerative qualities that makes it ideal for all skin types but is particularly great for soothing sensitive skin and moisturising oily, acne-prone skin as it provides lightweight hydration.
5. Green tea
We all know the benefits of drinking green tea, and in skincare it's no exception. Best known as a potent antioxidant due to the polyphenols (also called catechins) it contains which minimise signs of aging, green tea is also anti-flammatory and anti-microbial and has shown to be beneficial for acne-prone and oily skin. Containing caffeine, you'll also find green tea in many eye creams as it has the ability to reduce puffiness.
7. Ginseng
Ingested and used topically for centuries in Eastern medicine and associated with vitality and good health, Ginseng is commonly used in K-beauty to reduce signs of aging. Modern studies have noted the ability of Ginseng to increase circulation and oxygenation which naturally slows the development of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation (to help to brighten and banish dullness). This powerful ingredient also reduces puffines through it's anti-inflammatory benefits as well as increases collagen production to enhance the overall health of your skin.
6. Propolis
Yet another Korean but also Asian skincare favourite when it comes to reducing premature aging. For those unfamiliar with this ingredient, propolis is a compound derived from the sap of coniferous trees, such as pine and hemlock, converted by bees into a glue-y resin used to hold their hives together. Thanks to it's anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties, propolis is often used to heal, perfect for those looking for hydrating products with acne-fighting benefits. Containing potent antioxidative and regenerative qualities, propolis may help to reduce the signs of aging and is a great addition to your daytime routine in particular, to enhance your spf's sun defence.
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