Eyeshadow: How to perfect the look by Stevi Hopkins
Applying eyeshadow is one of the most common struggles I hear about when it comes to makeup.
“How do I do a smokey eye without it looking like a bruise?” “How do I wear bright colour on my eyes?” “I can do the rest of my makeup pretty well, but I really struggle with my eyes…”.
I totally understand! With a beauty market oversaturated with new products, trends and techniques, it’s hard to know where to start. Not to mention palettes with 60 shades – where to begin?!
I want to offer some super easy tips and tricks to help ease the confusion, and recommend
some of my favourite eye products while I’m at it.
Firstly, I need to mention that the key to the perfect eyeshadow application is an eye primer. Something that is so important for many reasons, including, colour intensity, ease of blending and longevity.
Do you ever get home from work and wonder where your eye makeup went? Nothing left but faded remnants of colour in the crease? Find yourself an eye primer and I promise this will not happen! Your colours will look more vibrant, they will last longer, and honestly, you’ll probably wonder why you never found a career as a makeup artist.
Makeup has no rules in my world. Play with styles and colours and shapes, because after all, it’s only makeup – if it doesn’t work, wipe it off and start again!
For example purposes, I will be referring to three parts of the eye, the “outer corner” the “mobile lid” and the “inner corner” (section closest to our nose).
• The outer corner is where the darker shades should be used
• The mobile lid is where your mid tone/shimmers should be used
• The inner corner is where your lightest colour should be used. This brightens and opens the eyes.
The next step is to identify which colour tone you’re going for. Are you thinking something with reds, pinks, neutrals, browns or gold tones? Then pick 3-4 colours that complement the desired colour palette and go from there.
• Starting with the darkest shades, use a fluffy brush to diffuse colour through the crease of your eye, working in windscreen wiper motions. Use gentle pressure – this will mean less product is applied. Soft pressure = diffused shades. Harder pressure = more precise colour application.
• Using a fine or a flat eyeshadow brush, apply the same darker shades to the bottom lash line, concentrating on the outer corner.
• Use your fluffy brush to diffuse the colour along the bottom and create a more “smokey” effect.
• Using your flat brush again, apply your mid tone or shimmers to your mobile lid, trying not to overlap the colours applied just applied in the outer corner.
• Using a smaller brush, apply your lightest shade to the inner corner.
• Finally, using your fluffy brush, gently sweep underneath the brow-bone, this helps to avoid any harsh lines.
M.A.C - DAVID JONES
ART LIBRARY – Flame-Boyant. Available at David Jones $89.
7 Matte, 5 Frost. Warm Red, Copper and Gold tones.
If you are a fan of a super warm eye colour, you need this palette in your life. Create a smouldering amber eye or a fiery red look, or just a soft, peachy bronze look. The options are endless. Created by MAC artists, the colour selections are paired together perfectly. Some shades are limited, but others are ongoing stock, which means if you fall in love with a particular shade, you may be able to buy it individually. WIN!
MECCA MAX - MECCA
Sugar Queen Eye and Face Palette. Available at MECCA - $38.
4 Matte, 6 Deluxe Frost, 5 Marbled Frost. Multi-use palette for face and eyes.
One swatch of this palette and you will be sold. The mattes are soft to the touch and have the perfect amount of pigment, and the frosted colours are second to none. They are so densely pigmented they almost feel like a cream. Apply the frosts with a brush for a softer colour, or use your finger for a more intense look. As an added bonus, each shadow is jumbo sized! This palette will last you a lifetime. Vegan and cruelty free.
REVOLUTION BEAUTY - PRICELINE PHARMACY
RELOADED Palette. Available at Priceline Pharmacy – $8.
Multiple palettes available. L-R “Velvet Rose” “Newtrals 2” and “Affection”
Affordable, extensive shade range in each palette, easy to blend.
I thought there was a mistake when I discovered the price of these palettes. I was reassured that it was correct and wasn’t even on sale. immediately bought all of them.
The price doesn’t match the quality at all. These shadows are incredible. Minimal fall out, which means no frustrating eyeshadow dust all over your cheeks. A little goes a long, long way. Vegan, cruelty free and gluten free.
YVES SAINT LAURENT - DAVID JONES
Full Matte Shadow. Available at David Jones $49.
Liquid formula, easy to blend, longwearing matte finish. Super speedy application!
A master stroke for those who haven’t quite mastered powder eyeshadow, are pressed for time, or just want a simple wash of colour on their eyes. Apply straight to the eye with the applicator and blend with either a brush or your finger and you are ready to go. Simple. Available in a selection of both matte and shimmer shades.
MORPHE - MECCA
The James Charles Palette. Available at MECCA $59.
26 Matte, 8 Metallic, 5 Shimmer. Intensely pigmented, extensive shade range, multiple finishes.
Designed by Makeup Artist James Charles, there isn’t much you couldn’t create with this palette. While there is a huge selection of intensely bold shades, there is also a variety of more wearable, neutral shades in both standard and jumbo sizes.
Find out more about Stevi Hopkins here.